Karting Guide
What can you do driving a go-kart?
Practice sessions at the track
Time trials against yourself and your friends (have someone time you, or invest in a lap timer like a Mychron 5)
No competitive passing
Lessons at the track
Coaching is offered by various dealers and vendors and can help you improve your driving
Local Club Races
Pick a class suitable for your age group, chassis and engine type that’s available at your club
Most of the classes are ‘sealed engine’ classes, meaning that engine work must be done by an authorized dealer for you to race
There are open classes as well, check with your local club for details
Regional/National Races
Run at various tracks around the Province/Country
Adheres to a specific manufacturer’s technical specs
Almost always ‘sealed engine’ classes
How much does karting cost? ($ in CAD)
The cost to kart can vary quite a bit. Single day “arrive and drive” programs are typically $400-$700/day and include the kart, rental driver equipment, some coaching and any maintenance. Kart damage is extra.
If you’re committing to the sport longer term, the upfront investment can range from $3000-$8000+ (bare bones used - new karts), ~$400-$800 for driver equipment, along with annual costs (~$750-$1100 for a club membership, ~$800 for storage), tools if doing basic maintenance yourself (see below for ‘Miscellaneous Tools’) and maintenance costs (see below for ‘Consumables’).
Kart engines will typically need a rebuild every season if running often. This is based on engine running hours, and is engine specific. Rebuilds can be ~$1000-$2000.
Kart chassis will also soften over time, or can get damaged to the point where they can’t be repaired. If running casually, a chassis can last for a few years. Some competitive drivers will replace their chassis every few races, so if you’re on the more casual side, you can find good used chassis at a discount.
Can you run and maintain a go-kart by yourself or do I need to use a dealer?
Yes, you can run a go-kart by yourself, but dealers offer “arrive and drive” programs and team programs.
Arrive and drive programs can run upwards of $600 per day, and takes care of any consumables, maintenance and coaching for the day.
Running a kart by yourself would involve an investment in a go-kart (see below for approximate costs) and self-maintenance or dealer maintenance. Self-maintenance would be cheaper over the long run, but would require more up-front investment in tooling and time costs. Dealer maintenance is more convenient, but would be more expensive over the long term. Note that even if you decide to do self-maintenance, you’ll require dealer support for engine rebuilds if you are running any ‘sealed engine’ races.
Self Running a Go-Kart
What equipment do you need?
Costs for your own go-kart can run from around $5000+ for a used kart in good condition with accessories, to $7500+ and above for something new. Add to that miscellaneous items such as storage, maintenance, tools, etc.
There are two main components to a go-kart, the Chassis and the Engine. These two items influence how fast you can go around a track and which races you’ll be able to enter..
Karts for kids age 5-12
Chassis
Most people choose their chassis based on parts availability (which local dealers stock which parts). As a new karter, the specific brand of chassis you choose won’t have much of an impact on your lap times.
Kid Kart Chassis (~$3300 New)
Age: 5-8 (older kids could use Kid Kart chassis if they are on the shorter side)
Weight: Recommend 30-60 lbs (will be at a weight disadvantage above this)
Height: Recommend < 4.5 ft (tight fit above this)
Cadet Chassis (~$4300 New)
Age: 7-12
Weight: Any
Height: Any
Brands
Parolin/Falcon
Tony Kart/OTK/Kosmic Kart/LN (Lando Norris) Kart
Birel Art/Riccardo/Leclerc/Kubica
Comkart (has some components interchangeable with Birel Art)
CRG
TB Kart/JV Kart
Engines
Most people choose their engine based on cost (upfront and maintenance), driver ability, how fast they want to go, and what races they want to enter. Young drivers typically start with Kid Kart if they can fit. The difference between Kid Kart and Mini Cadet is ~30%.
Approx Top Speed Ratings:
1 - (~55-60 kph)
2 - (~65-70 kph)
3 - (~ 80-85 kph)
4 - (~ 95-100 kph)
Kid Kart Engines (~$1600 New with Clutch)
Honda GXH50
Type: 4 Stroke
Class: Kid Kart
Initial Cost: $
Maintenance: Low
Reliability: High
Speed: 1
Upgradeability: None
Cadet Engines (~$1900 - $4000 New with Exhaust/Wiring Harness/ECU)
Junior Briggs 206
Type: 4 Stroke
Class: Junior Briggs 206
Initial Cost: $$
Maintenance: Low
Reliability: High
Speed: 2
Upgradeability: None
Rotax Micro Max
Type: 2 Stroke
Class: TAG Micro
Initial Cost: $$$$
Maintenance: Medium
Reliability: Medium-High
Speed: 3
Upgradeability: Can upgrade to Mini Max with a small number of components (ECU, gaskets, exhaust parts)
Notes: There are different generations of the Max engine. National races have a restriction on which generations are allowed. Club races do not have this restriction, and running an older generation used engine can save you some money upfront.
Mini ROK
Type: 2 Stroke
Class: TAG Cadet or Tag Micro (with restrictor)
Initial Cost: $$$
Maintenance: High (Higher Frequency for rebuilds)
Reliability: Medium
Speed: 4 (3 with Micro restrictor)
Upgradeability: Can run TAG Cadet or Tag Micro (with restrictor)
IAME Mini Swift
Type: 2 Stroke
Class: TAG Cadet or Tag Micro (with restrictor)
Initial Cost: $$$
Maintenance: High (Higher Frequency for rebuilds)
Reliability: Medium
Speed: 4 (3 with Micro restrictor)
Upgradeability: Can run TAG Cadet or Tag Micro (with restrictor)
Rotax Mini Max
Type: 2 Stroke
Class: TAG Cadet
Initial Cost: $$$$
Maintenance: Medium
Reliability: Medium-High
Speed: 4
Upgradeability: None
Notes: There are different generations of the Max engine. National races have a restriction on which generations are allowed. Club races do not have this restriction, and running an older generation used engine can save you some money upfront.
PNW Specific Engines
These motors are available via Italian Motors and just raced around the PNW
X125T, X125WC
Type: 2 Stroke
Class: TAG Cade
Initial Cost: $$$
Maintenance: High (Higher Frequency for rebuilds)
Reliability: Medium
Speed: 4
Upgradeability: None
Discontinued Engines
IAME Leopard 100cc - 2 Stroke
Type: 2 Stroke
Class: TAG Cadet
Initial Cost: $ (used engines only)
Maintenance: High (Higher Frequency for rebuilds)
Reliability: Medium
Speed: 4
Upgradeability: None
Miscellaneous Kart Equipment (~$350-$2000 New)
Engine Mount (~$200)
Chain Guard (~$150)
Chassis Protectors (Optional) (~$100)
Mychron Lap Timer (Optional) (~$700)
MyLaps Transponder (Required for races. Can rent for race @$25/race) - (~$200 plus $100 annual subscription per year)
Pedal Extenders (Optional) (~$50-$100)
Lead Weights and mounting hardware - Needed if you are doing competitive races and need to meet minimum weight requirements
Extra Wheels (Optional, for rain tires or practice set) ($400-$600)
Miscellaneous Driver Equipment (~$1000-$2000 New)
Helmet (~$300-700)
Kart Suit (~$300)
Rib Protector (~$300)
Neck Roll (~$200)
Gloves (Recommended) (~$50)
Chest Protector (Recommended for children) (~$200)
Rain Suit (Recommended for the rain) (~$200)
Karting Shoes (Optional) (~$100-$200)
Miscellaneous Tools (~$1000-$2000 New)
Metric wrenches, sockets and T-Handle Hex Keys
Kart Stand (~$400-$700)
Tire Bead Breaker ($50) and Changing Tool ($200)
Alignment Tool (Laser ~$450, Manual ~$70)
Sprocket Alignment Tool (Laser ~$120, Manual ~$20)
Foldable working table (~$70)
Canopy (~$100-$200)
Fuel Can (~$40)
Measuring Cup (~$10)
Consumables (~$900-$4000/season)
Tires (~$300/set. Each set lasts 2 race days, 4+ practice sessions)
Fuel (Pump 94 + 2 stroke engine oil to mix for 2 stroke engines)
Motul 2 stroke kart oil ~$40/bottle, lasts for 4-5 days
Cleaning Supplies
Chain Cleaner and Lubricant - clean/lubricate every session or two
~$15/bottle, lasts for 4-5 days
Carb cleaner - clean every running day
Degreaser cleaner (e.g. Simple Green) - clean kart every day
Towels/Rags
Work Gloves/Disposable Gloves
Kart Parts
Chain - will last longer if you keep them clean and lubricated - (~$60-$100)
Rear Sprocket - will last longer if you keep it clean and lubricated - (~$50)
Drive Sprocket - will last longer if you keep it clean and lubricated - (~$60)
Rear Axle Bearings - will last longer if you keep it clean and lubricated - (~$120/set)
Front Wheel Bearings - will last longer if you keep it clean and lubricated - (~$20/set)
Tie Rods - can get damaged in accidents - (~$80/set)
Rear Axle - can get damaged in accidents - (~$300)
Miscellaneous nuts and bolts, which will fall off
How to get started on the track if you are self-running
Once you sign up for a club membership, you can show up at any practice day and run in the run group appropriate for your ability, kart chassis and kart engine.
Run groups rotate through the day and can be found on a board posted by the race control tower. Run groups run in 10 minute sessions.
New drivers usually start in the Novice run group, and mark themselves as a new driver with an ‘X’ (usually with colored tape) across the rear of their helmet and the back bumper.
Cadet and Full Size Chassis will never run together, so if their are Novice drivers of both classes, there will be two separate sessions.
If it’s your first time, it’s a good idea to go with an existing member on your first day, or try a session with a dealer. You can find other members that are willing to show you around by visiting XXX or sending an email to YYY.
